domingo, 1 de mayo de 2016

Slow-Cooked Whole Carrots

Why this recipe works:

We wanted a technique for cooking whole carrots (currently a popular restaurant dish) that would yield a sweet and meltingly tender vegetable from one end to the other without the carrots becoming mushy or waterlogged. Gently “steeping” the carrots in warm water before cooking them firms up the vegetable’s cell walls so that they can be cooked for a long time without falling apart. We also top the carrots with a cartouche (a circle of parchment that sits directly on the food) during cooking to ensure that they are evenly cooked from end to end.

Serves 4 to 6

Use carrots that measure 3/4 to 1 1/4 inches across at the thickest end. The carrots can be served plain, but we recommend topping them with one of our relishes (see related content).

Ingredients

  • 3 cups water
  • 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 12 carrots (1 1/2 to 1 3/4 pounds), peeled

Instructions


  1. 1. Fold 12-inch square of parchment paper into quarters to create 6-inch square. Fold bottom right corner of square to top left corner to create triangle. Fold triangle again, right side over left, to create narrow triangle. Cut off 1/4 inch of tip of triangle to create small hole. Cut base of triangle straight across where it measures 5 inches from hole. Open paper round.
    2. Bring water, butter, and salt to simmer in 12-inch skillet over high heat. Remove pan from heat, add carrots in single layer, and place parchment round on top of carrots. Cover skillet and let stand for 20 minutes.
    3. Remove lid from skillet, leaving parchment round in place, and bring to simmer over high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until almost all water has evaporated and carrots are very tender, about 45 minutes. Discard parchment round, increase heat to medium-high, and continue to cook carrots, shaking pan frequently, until they are lightly glazed and no water remains in skillet, 2 to 4 minutes longer. Transfer carrots to platter and serve.


Technique

Persistent Firmness—It’s a Real Thing


Precooking certain fruits or vegetables at a low temperature can help them retain a firm yet tender texture during a second cooking phase at a higher temperature. This phenomenon, called “persistent firmness,” is the key to achieving evenly cooked whole carrots—especially those that are thick on one end and tapered on the other. To initiate persistent firmness, we found that our carrots need to be precooked in 120- to 160-degree water for 20 minutes. During this warm bath, an enzyme in the carrot called pectin methylesterase (PME) is activated. PME alters the pectin in the vegetable in such a way that it is able to bind with calcium ions that are also present in the cells. This, in turn, fortifies the pectin, creating a strong network that is more resistant to breaking down when the carrots finish cooking at a higher temperature. The upshot? Carrots that are perfectly tender—but not at all mushy—from end to end.

Technique

Making the Case for Paper


Going to the trouble of making a parchment paper lid with a small hole in the middle, or a cartouche, is worth it. It works better than a metal lid to keep steam concentrated on the top of the carrots, so they cook at the same rate as the underside of the vegetables.

Technique

Making a Parchment Lid (Cartouche)

1. Fold 12-inch square of parchment into quarters to create 6-inch square.
2. With openings at top and right sides, fold bottom right corner of square to top left corner.
3. Fold triangle again, right side over left, to create narrow triangle.
4. Cut off 1/4 inch of tip to create hole. Cut base of triangle straight across where it measures 5 inches from hole.
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