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domingo, 1 de mayo de 2016

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Simple Pot-Au-Feu

Why this recipe works:

To simplify and streamline pot-au-feu, we used easy-to-find, affordable chuck-eye roast in place of a range of hard-to-find cuts of beef and veal, pork sausage, and chicken. To capture the savory, buttery qualities that bone marrow imparts to a traditional broth, we cooked inexpensive marrow bones (often labeled soup bones) with the beef and then used the marrow left behind after cooking in a finishing sauce of minced herbs, mustard, and minced cornichons. Using less liquid to turn this traditional boiled dinner into a braise created a more concentrated broth. For a clear broth without the fuss, we skipped the skimming step most recipes require and simply kept the pot at a gentle simmer, which we guaranteed by transferring the pot to a low oven.

Serves 6 to 8

Marrow bones (also called soup bones) can be found in the freezer section or the meat counter at most supermarkets. Use small red potatoes measuring 1 to 2 inches in diameter.

Ingredients

  • Meat
  • 1 (3 1/2- to 4-pound) boneless beef chuck-eye roast, pulled into two pieces at natural seam and trimmed
  • Kosher salt
  • 1 1/2 pounds marrow bones
  • 1 onion, quartered
  • 1 celery rib, sliced thin
  • 3 bay leaves
  • 1 teaspoon black peppercorns
  • Parsley Sauce
  • 2/3 cup minced fresh parsley
  • 1/4 cup Dijon mustard
  • 1/4 cup minced fresh chives
  • 3 tablespoons white wine vinegar
  • 10 cornichons, minced
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons pepper
  • Vegetables
  • 1 pound small red potatoes, halved
  • 6 carrots, halved crosswise, thick halves quartered lengthwise, thin halves halved lengthwise
  • 1 pound asparagus, trimmed
  • Kosher salt and pepper
  • Flake sea salt

Instructions


  1. 1. FOR THE MEAT: Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 300 degrees. Season beef with 1 tablespoon salt. Using 3 pieces of kitchen twine per piece, tie each into loaf shape for even cooking. Place beef, bones, onion, celery, bay leaves, and peppercorns in Dutch oven. Add 4 cups cold water (water should come halfway up roasts). Bring to simmer over high heat. Partially cover pot and transfer to oven. Cook until beef is fully tender and sharp knife easily slips in and out of meat (meat will not be shreddable), 3 1/4 to 3 3/4 hours, flipping beef over halfway through cooking.
    2. FOR THE PARSLEY SAUCE: While beef cooks, combine all ingredients in bowl. Cover and set aside.
    3. Remove pot from oven and turn off oven. Transfer beef to large platter, cover tightly with aluminum foil, and return to oven to keep warm. Transfer bones to cutting board and use end of spoon to extract marrow. Mince marrow into paste and add 2 tablespoons to parsley sauce (reserve any remaining marrow for other applications). Using ladle or large spoon, skim fat from surface of broth and discard fat. Strain broth through fine-mesh strainer into large liquid measuring cup; add water to make 6 cups. Return broth to pot. (Meat can be returned to broth, cooled, and refrigerated for up to 2 days. Skim fat from cold broth, then gently reheat and proceed with recipe.)
    4. FOR THE VEGETABLES: Add potatoes to broth and bring to simmer over high heat. Reduce heat to medium and simmer for 6 minutes. Add carrots and cook 10 minutes longer. Add asparagus and continue to cook until all vegetables are tender, 3 to 5 minutes longer.
    5. Using slotted spoon, transfer vegetables to large bowl. Toss with 3 tablespoons parsley sauce and season with salt and pepper to taste. Season broth with salt to taste.
    6. Transfer beef to cutting board, remove twine, and slice against grain 1/2 inch thick. Arrange servings of beef and vegetables in large, shallow bowls. Dollop beef with parsley sauce, drizzle with 1/3 cup broth, and sprinkle with flake sea salt. Serve, passing remaining parsley sauce and flake sea salt separately.


Technique

One Cut is Plenty


Most pot-au-feu recipes call for a slew of different meats. To streamline, we settled on just one cut: chuck-eye roast, which delivers tender, beefy-tasting meat with a fraction of the effort or expense required by many classic renditions. This roast also needs very little prep.

Pull the roast apart at the seam to make two smaller roasts and then trim any large knobs of fat.

Technique

Bone Up for Better Broth


One thing our chuck-eye roast didn’t deliver was the silky body and almost buttery flavor of a broth made from bone-in cuts. The solution was simple: Add marrow bones. The soft tissue found inside the bones is packed with the amino acids responsible for meaty, umami flavors. It also contains the volatile compound diacetyl, a component of natural butter flavor, and brings a subtle buttery taste to the broth. As an added bonus, at the end of cooking, we scrape the marrow from the bones and stir it into our sauce to give it a beefy, rich boost.

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lunes, 18 de abril de 2016

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Tuscan-Style Beef Stew

 Tuscan-Style Beef Stew


Tuscan beef stew (peposo), a stew made by the tilemakers of Florence's famous Santa Maria del Fiore Cathedral Duomo, is a simple stew of beef braised in wine, with loads of peppercorns and a head of garlic cloves. To improve the texture and flavor of ours without veering too far from the original, we added tomato paste and anchovies for meatiness, powdered gelatin for body, and shallots, carrots, and herbs for complexity. To ensure a full-bodied wine flavor, we add some wine at the beginning of the long braise, more before reducing the sauce, and a small amount at the end. And we did the same with the peppercorns: cracked pepper at the start, ground pepper toward the end, and more cracked pepper on serving.
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Tuscan-Style Beef Stew

In this simple yet rich stew, just two ingredients—Chianti and black pepper—provide most of the complexity. But when you add them to the pot makes all the difference. Watch the Video

Serves 6 to 8

We prefer boneless short ribs in this recipe because they require very little trimming. If you cannot find them, substitute a 5-pound chuck roast. Trim the roast of large pieces of fat and sinew, and cut it into 2-inch pieces. If Chianti is unavailable, a medium-bodied wine such as Côtes du Rhône or Pinot Noir makes a nice substitute. Serve with polenta or crusty bread.

Ingredients

  • 4 pounds boneless beef short ribs, trimmed and cut into 2-inch pieces
  • Salt
  • 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
  • 1 (750-ml) bottle Chianti
  • 1 cup water
  • 4 shallots, peeled and halved lengthwise
  • 2 carrots, peeled and halved lengthwise
  • 1 garlic head, cloves separated, unpeeled, and crushed
  • 4 sprigs fresh rosemary
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 1 tablespoon cracked black peppercorns, plus extra for serving
  • 1 tablespoon unflavored gelatin
  • 1 tablespoon tomato paste
  • 1 teaspoon anchovy paste
  • 2 teaspoons ground black pepper
  • 2 teaspoons cornstarch

Instructions


  1. 1. Toss beef and 1 1/2 teaspoons salt together in bowl and let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes. Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 300 degrees.
    2. Heat oil in large Dutch oven over medium-high heat until just smoking. Add half of beef in single layer and cook until well browned on all sides, about 8 minutes total, reducing heat if fond begins to burn. Stir in 2 cups wine, water, shallots, carrots, garlic, rosemary, bay leaves, cracked peppercorns, gelatin, tomato paste, anchovy paste, and remaining beef. Bring to simmer and cover tightly with sheet of heavy-duty aluminum foil, then lid. Transfer to oven and cook until beef is tender, 2 to 2 1/4 hours, stirring halfway through cooking time.
    3. Using slotted spoon, transfer beef to bowl; cover tightly with foil and set aside. Strain sauce through fine-mesh strainer into fat separator. Wipe out pot with paper towels. Let liquid settle for 5 minutes, then return defatted liquid to pot.
    4. Add 1 cup wine and ground black pepper and bring mixture to boil over medium-high heat. Simmer briskly, stirring occasionally, until sauce is thickened to consistency of heavy cream, 12 to 15 minutes.
    5. Combine remaining wine and cornstarch in small bowl. Reduce heat to medium-low, return beef to pot, and stir in cornstarch-wine mixture. Cover and simmer until just heated through, 5 to 8 minutes. Season with salt to taste. Serve, passing extra cracked peppercorns separately. (Stew can be made up to 3 days in advance.)


Technique

Cheap Wine is Fine


Early recipes for peposo relied on inexpensive Chianti, while modern versions call for a midpriced bottle (whether Chianti or a similar Tuscan wine such as Montepulciano or Brunello). We made batches using cheap ($5), midpriced ($12), and pricey ($20) Chianti, along with other varieties we often use in the kitchen: Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, and Côtes du Rhône.
We were surprised that the stew made with the cheapest Chianti went over well with most tasters. While the midpriced wine was agreeable to everyone, there was no advantage to cooking with the expensive bottle. Highly oaked, tannic wines like Cabernet became harsh when cooked, but cheap bottles of fruitier pinot and Côtes du Rhône made good stand-ins for the Chianti.

Technique

Maximizing the Flavors from Wine and Pepper


The flavor compounds in wine and pepper can be classified by their behavior during cooking. Stable compounds don’t change, but volatile compounds evaporate, and unstable compounds break down. Over time, the result is a loss of flavor. Most recipes we found for this stew call for adding all the wine and pepper at once, at the start of a 2 1/2-hour simmer. At the end of cooking, the flavors remaining were only those of the stable compounds. By adding some of the wine and pepper 15 minutes before finishing cooking, and the remainder of wine and pepper at the end, we were able to preserve more of the volatile and unstable compounds, capturing the most fleeting, bright, fresh flavors from both the wine and the pepper.

OTHER STEWS: LESS FLAVOR
All the wine and pepper are added at the start, so many of the compounds break down or dissipate by the end of the long simmer.
TRIANGLES: Volatile compounds evaporate
CIRCLES: Unstable compounds break down
SQUARES: Stable compounds remain
OUR STEW: MORE FLAVOR
We add wine and pepper in three stages to guarantee full flavor contributions from all three types of compounds.
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